Assemble it like it has to come apart tonight.
Combat assembly has two jobs: survive the hits, and come apart fast for repairs. Both are decided by how you fasten plastic.
The assembly sequence
In this order, so you never have to disassemble a finished section:
Chassis preparation
Test-fit all chassis components before final assembly. Check clearances around motors, electronics, and moving parts.
Tip: Sand, file, or Dremel tight spots found during test assembly — far easier before parts are fastened. Then fix the issue in CAD for the final print.
Motor installation
Drive motors should slide easily into their mounts. If using mounting screws, apply threadlocker so they don’t back out.
Tip: Press-fit rule of thumb: about 0.2 mm of tolerance.
Electronics installation
With motors in, route motor wires and mount ESCs, receiver, and the rest with proper wire management.
Tip: Complete all wiring at this step — the prototype chassis is your wire-management guide; make final tolerance edits as you approach the final print.
Wheel hubs & shaft collars
Slide shaft collars onto the wheel hubs, then install the assembly on the shafts. The long set screw interlocks hub and shaft so wheels can’t slip in a fight.
Tip: Put an access hole in the wheel so you can reach the set screw after the hub and collar are on the shaft. Threadlocker on set screws.
Final chassis assembly
Install top plate(s) and any upright components to complete the structure.
Tip: With plastite screws, do not overtighten — they will strip the printed part.
Motor mounting & retention
Drive motors
- Screw-mount through the gearbox — threadlocker on every screw
- Printed braces that physically constrain the motor
- Check the wheels sit parallel and nothing binds
- Leave access for wiring and maintenance
Weapon motors (press-fit)
- Hole 0.1–0.2 mm over motor diameter for a light press fit
- Steady, controlled pressure: vise, arbor press, or clamp
- About 6 mm of wall around the motor mount
- Verify the shaft is perpendicular to the mounting surface
Wheel hubs & collars
- D-shaft bore in the hub to match the motor’s D-shaft
- Set screw tightens against the shaft flat
- Threadlocker on set screws for high-load drive
- Position the collar to compress against the flats
Fasteners for printed parts
Plastite screws (recommended):thread-forming screws that make strong threads in plastic without removing material. Common sizes for antweight work: M3 and #4, 3/8" long. Drill the pilot hole at the manufacturer’s specified size, and don’t overtighten.
Heat-set inserts beat screwing into bare plastic wherever a joint comes apart repeatedly — set them with a soldering-iron installation tip, keeping the insert square to the hole. Threadlocker goes on any metal-to-metal screw that vibration can reach (motor screws, set screws).
Before you test
- All fasteners tight; threadlocker where specified
- Wheels parallel, spinning free, no binding through full drive motion
- Wiring secured away from moving parts; battery bay clean
- Weapon lock installed